Day One: Museum Row and Mid-City

I live a couple of blocks from Miracle Mile’s Museum Row, home to LACMA, the Petersen Automotive Museum, the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, and the La Brea Tar Pits and Page Museum. A few blocks north: the outdoor shopping and entertainment center and the Original Farmers Market at Third and Fairfax. Honestly, there’s so much fun stuff to do in my neighborhood that the first itinerary both starts and ends here, and you can do it all on foot—if your kids are pretty good walkers or if you have a stroller for the littlest ones. 

Sometimes kids’ eyes glaze over when they hear the word “museum.” But these are museums kids actually get excited about, all within easy walking distance on Wilshire Boulevard, known as Museum Row.

Breakfast Time

If you’d like to get an early start to your day on Museum Row, Meyers Manx Café at the Petersen Automotive Museum opens at 8am. It’s a bit pricey, but there aren’t many options on this stretch of Wilshire Boulevard, and if you grab a coffee and share a couple of breakfast burritos you won’t break the bank. 

If you’d rather sleep in a bit, Fanny’s at the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures opens at 10am and serves excellent lattes, croissants, muffins, and scones. You can dine inside or outside beneath the Sphere Building (nicknamed the Death Star by regulars) with its huge custom-cut glass dome that holds two movie theaters and an amazing observation deck that looks north toward the Hollywood Hills and the Griffith Observatory. 

 
See a classic on a budget. Photo courtesy of the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures

While you’re at the Academy Museum, check their matinee schedule because on Saturdays and some weekdays they show kid-friendly fare (The Wizard of Oz, the original Parent Trap, to name two recent titles) in the smaller of the two theaters; admission is $5.

Time for exploring... and Photo Ops

If you’re all fed and ready to roll before the museums open (mostly at 10am), you can bring your coffee along and explore some sights that are both enjoyable to visit and make great photo ops. Start at LACMA’s Wilshire Boulevard entrance, at Urban Light, which has become a sort of unofficial symbol of Los Angeles and a well-worn Instagram hashtag; no admission required and it’s open 24/7. 

Celebrities have posed here, among the 202 restored vintage street lamps that make up this artwork, and your family will have fun posing there too. It’s more than a photo op, because it’s also an ideal spot to sip your coffee or hot chocolate, hang out, and people-watch: You’ll see teenage girls posing in sherbet-colored quinceanera dresses, glamorously dressed couples embracing, families trying to get one perfect shot for their holiday card, and so on. It’s a real slice of life. 

Note: You can make someone else’s day by offering to snap a photo for them, because it’s almost impossible to capture the scale and majesty of this artwork by taking a selfie. The lights turn on at dusk, and the glow they create is beautiful, so come back again later if you can. And on summer Friday nights free live jazz concerts attract crowds bringing picnics, making this a great option for a budget-friendly dinner.

More LACMA Sights

Much of LACMA has been torn down and its much-talked-about new Wilshire-Boulevard-spanning David Geffen Galleries are still under construction, but there’s still plenty to see and do. The Broad Contemporary Art Museum building features fan-favorite Metropolis II, a kinetic sculpture featuring hundreds of miniature cars speeding around an elaborate grid of roadways. It can be noisy, though that’s part of the appeal. But that’s for later, if you decide to visit the museum.

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Grab those iconic photo ops in front of the LACMA Levitated Mass. 

In the meantime, your next stop is Levitated Mass, a long concrete slot, kind of like a roofless tunnel, topped by a 340-ton piece of granite that almost appears to be floating overhead. Like the Tower of Pisa, where tourists pose so that the photo makes it look like they’re holding the tower up, the popular stance here is to extend your arms so that it looks like you’re the only thing supporting the massive rock. Kids love this—they may request multiple reshoots—and they also love running down the slope toward the rock. 

Note: Don’t let them stand or sit on the walls surrounding the rock, as the guards are quick with their whistles, and no one likes being scolded for misbehavior. It’s easy to forget that this fun, child-friendly tunnel topped by a giant rock is actually a work of art, and the usual no-touching rules still apply.

On to the La Brea Tar Pits

Next, get a photo with the pair of life-size sculptures of Harlan’s ground sloths. As you walk, you’ll see the active excavation site called Project 23, from which multitudes of sloth fossils have been extracted. (There are also plenty of sloth skeletons—as well as a stunning wall filled with multiple jawbones of dire wolves—inside the nearby Page Museum).  

Then you’ll approach the Lake Pit. Be sure to walk to the southern side because from there you can capture photos of your kids in front of the luckless mammoth models trapped in the tar without the fence getting in the way; your human children and the trumpeting baby mammoth calling out to its parents should be the stars of this photo.

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Steer over to the Petersen. Photo by Max Whittaker, courtesy of Visit California

The Petersen Automotive Museum 

When it’s time to museum-hop, you can’t go wrong. The Petersen Automotive Museum is a real kid-pleaser; the car collection is amazing, and the exhibits engaging. For example, the “Mr. Brainwash” exhibit features an interactive art display that lets kids walk right into paintings and become one with the art. And in conjunction with the “Totally Awesome: Cars and Culture of the ’80s and ’90s” exhibit, there are a bunch of retro games from the ’80s and ’90s that kids can play (play is not free, however; tokens can be purchased at the museum store).

If breakfast at Fanny’s piqued your interest in exhibits like the one on the history of the Academy Awards, which features the sparkly hot pink suit Ryan Gosling wore during his “I’m Just Ken” Oscars performance, it opens at 10am. Children under 17 get in free, so even though adult admission is $25, if you average it out, the cost isn’t so bad.

Pay Attention to Parking

An important note, in this city that’s all about cars and parking: If you decide to drive from Museum Row to the next stop on this tour, the Original Farmers Market at Third and Fairfax, don’t be tempted to park in the Whole Foods lot unless you’re actively shopping there, and when you’re finished shopping, leave. Otherwise your car will very likely get towed. I’ve seen more than one car leave that parking lot attached to a tow truck! Sure, the Original Farmers Market and The Grove (another stop that’s coming up) both charge for parking, but the risk of being towed makes the expense justifiable.

Another parking warning: If you park at The Grove, be sure not to stay longer than the period you got validated for, because if you overstay by even one minute, the validation becomes invalid and you will pay full price for the entire length of your parking time. If you’d like to stay longer you might consider leaving the parking lot and coming back and getting a new validation.

The Original Farmers Market 

The Original Farmers Market as we know it started out in 1934 as a gathering of farmers selling produce right out of their trucks; today it features produce stands, all sorts of food vendors, doughnuts, ice cream, candy makers, butchers and more. It’s a charming place to shop and dine, especially if you’re a fan of such things as the mint-green vintage tables and chairs that dot the entire market space. In 2002, The Grove outdoor shopping and entertainment center was built next to Farmers Market.

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There are tons of options for families at the Original Farmers Market. 

Lunchtime

Lunch at the Original Farmers Market is great for families because everyone can choose what they’re in the mood for: Singapore’s Banana Leaf (try the nasi goreng with tofu), Fritzi Coop (fried chicken sandwiches), Noodle Art (three-topping spicy noodles), Magee’s Kitchen (corned beef and coleslaw), Phil’s Deli & Grill (burgers, hot dogs, fries), Friends and Family Pizza Company (Taleggio cheese, new potatoes, shaved red onion, and pistachio pizzas, chopped salad), for starters.

Finding a table in the main market area can be a challenge during the lunch rush, but take the stairs on the north side of the market; they’ll lead you to the low-key and much less crowded dining rooms upstairs, with great views of people milling about below.

Don't Skip Dessert

After lunch, consider Bob’s Coffee & Donuts, where you can get the cutest dinosaur and cat doughnuts made especially for kids, but if you get there early enough, try handing your offspring a doughnut hole or two (this way, they will be getting a lot less sugar; the shop makes a limited number of doughnut holes and they tend to run out early in the day). Bennett’s Ice Cream has been making and serving perfect ice cream at its retro red-and-white-striped stand since 1963. 

On to The Grove 

It's an easy walk to The Grove, but if you’re exhausted, ride the free open-air double-decker trolley. Kids practically knock each other down trying to get the front row on the upper deck, but all seats have a great view. 

Be sure to visit See’s Candies, where you can request a free sample of one of their high-quality chocolates, such as a Butterscotch Square (my favorite!) or a Dark California Brittle or Peanut Butter Patty. See’s is a quintessential California chocolate maker, turning out high-quality chocolates in Los Angeles since 1921.

The Vegas-style dancing fountain show in front of the AMC movie theater is a fun spot to hang out while you decide which stores to visit. Barnes & Noble offers an incredible selection of toys and LEGO bricks along with its children’s books. Browse all you like, and it doesn’t cost a thing. Check the calendar for free kids’ programs at the bookstore too.

And The Grove presents all sorts of programming for kids, especially during the summer, variously featuring live music, storytelling, and puppet shows, and the AMC movie theater’s Summer Movie Camp offers animated films at reduced prices several times a week. Check out our events calendar to see what's happening. 

Day Two: Griffith Park and Silver Lake

Griffith Park

Like New York’s Central Park and San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park, LA’s Griffith Park offers a bit of everything: miniature trains, hiking trails galore, and of course, the jewel in the crown, the Griffith Observatory. 

My favorite day at Griffith Park starts at Trails Cafe, a magical little spot that is so untouched by time that it doesn’t even have its own website. What it does have is delicious food served in a pastoral setting, plus it’s just across the road from the Ferndell Trail, which is the loveliest mostly shaded and non-strenuous little walk that is perfect for kids and tired parents alike. Order breakfast at Trails and sit a while at one of their picnic tables nestled out back. You can even take your breakfast with you as you stroll along the trail.

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Climb up to the Griffith Observatory for free fun. 

If you’re feeling energetic, you can walk up to the Griffith Observatory; I recommend walking because parking up there is expensive. (If you arrive earlyish and look around a bit, you should be able to find free parking near Trails Cafe). However, many attractions at the Observatory are free: sweeping views of the city and the Hollywood sign; the iconic grounds, which you have surely seen in movies like Rebel Without a Cause; and entry to the Observatory itself. 

Walk back down the hill to The Trails for lunch; the avocado sandwich is legendary, and the snake dog (a hot dog wrapped in pastry) is a kid favorite, with a cookie or pie a la mode for dessert. Then you can choose among many other Griffith Park activities: the Los Angeles Zoo, Travel Town, Los Angeles Live Steamers, the Autry Museum of the American West, or Shane’s Inspiration Playground. Just know that you can’t do it all in a day.

Silver Lake

After my family is done at Griffith Park, we usually head over to Pine and Crane, a reasonably priced fast-casual Taiwanese place in Silver Lake. It’s pretty loud and therefore family-friendly. We like sitting outside, where it’s quieter. Our go-tos are the scallion pancakes and the Dan Dan Noodles (thin wheat-based noodles with sesame-peanut sauce, chili oil, cucumbers, and crushed peanuts), quintessential comfort food. I always leave wanting more. 

Which is a good thing, because the next stop is for ice cream! Mashti Malone’s, one of the best ice cream spots in Los Angeles, is just down the street. It's famous for its exotic flavors—like Persian cucumber and a pretty lilac-hued French lavender—but also well-stocked with favorites like chocolate fudge brownie, dulce de leche, and cookies and cream. It’s literally a one-minute walk from Pine and Crane. Junior scoops at only $4 are a nice way to cap off the day. 

Day Three: Santa Monica, Malibu

No visit to LA is complete without some beach time. But which beach? There are so many beaches for kids and families in Los Angeles!

Manhattan Beach, a few miles south of LA, is a dreamy coastal destination, with clean wide beaches and the charming kid-friendly Roundhouse Aquarium at the end of its pier, but considering everything, and most especially factoring in drive time, I have to recommend Santa Monica Beach, specifically starting out at the Annenberg Community Beach House on Pacific Coast Highway. 

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Dive into the Annenberg Community Beach House. Photo by Meghan Dhaliwal, courtesy of Visit California

Your Beach Day Begins

The Annenberg Community Beach House, run by the city of Santa Monica, occupies the grounds of what was once the Marion Davies Estate, built in the late 1920s. It’s not free to get in, but you do get a lot for your money. Tickets for pool admission are available one hour before opening time and include all-day access to the pool deck, heated pool, changing rooms, lockers, and splash pad. 

Your best bet is to arrive early because the parking lot fills up and the pool passes sell out. So come for breakfast at the next-door restaurant, and that way you’ll be ready to strike when the pool passes go on sale. 

Parking here is kind of a steal anyway, because it’s a $12 daily maximum, and you can stay as long as you want. So you can bring your own food and eat on the beach, or you can order buttermilk pancakes and banana-Nutella French toast served to your table on the sand at Back on the Beach Cafe, one of the LA restaurants where parents can eat while kids eat. The restaurant is right next to the Annenberg Community Beach House. While the kitchen is at work, your kids can enjoy the swings in a small play area. 

Take a Walk 

Pool passes in hand, you can switch between pool time, playing in the waves, building sand castles, and lounging in the sun. When the kids get antsy, Santa Monica Pier is about a 30-minute walk south. Walking around on the pier is free, but the Pacific Park amusement park atop the pier is pricey. The 12 featured rides include a roller coaster ($17 per ride!) and a solar-powered Ferris wheel (also $17); an unlimited ride wristband is $50 for adults, $30 for kids. The arcade has all sorts of games, including Skee-Ball, that your kids can play and earn tickets to trade for cheap trinkets. 

Head straight to the beautiful, historic carousel ($3 a ride). The kids might protest at first, but the carousel will win them over; they get to choose between 44 hand-carved horses, 2 sleighs, 1 rabbit, and 1 goat; the outside horses stand still, and the middle row of horses go up and down for a more thrilling journey.

A few steps from the carousel is Hot Dog on a Stick, another historic landmark of sorts. The specialty is Nathan’s Famous all-beef hot dogs dipped in batter and cooked to order ($7), plus fresh-squeezed strawberry lemonade. The best deal is the large size; ask for extra cups and share.

Walk east up the pier road and turn left at the top of the hill. Then stroll along Palisades Park, soaking up the stunning ocean views. Walk north to the California Incline (the road that leads spectacularly down the bluffs and back to PCH). Take the bridge across PCH at the bottom and return to Annenberg for more swimming, splashing, and showering. 

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Stroll the Getty Villa gardens. Photo by Meghan Dhaliwal, courtesy of Visit California

The Getty Villa

Back on the Beach stays open until 8pm if you want to stay for dinner, but I’d suggest heading to the Getty Villa next. (Note that advance parking reservations are required; parking costs $25 but admission is free). The Getty Villa is practically designed for kids, with amenities including scavenger hunts, gardens to dash around in, and a dedicated Family Room. 

The Villa closes at 5pm, so you’ll need to go elsewhere for dinner. Fritto Misto in Santa Monica lacks an ocean view but abounds in warm bread served at your table. The pasta, especially the spaghetti bolognese, is terrific. 

Want to gaze out at the Pacific while you eat? Malibu Farm Restaurant is a bit of a drive north from Santa Monica, but its location on the Malibu Pier means great ocean views; being stuck in traffic is less painful with a view, too. This is a great spot to watch the sunset and reflect on the day gone by. 

All photos by the author unless otherwise indicated.